Pitti Uomo shines spotlight on eco-responsible Ivorian label Olooh
The S Style section of Pitti Uomo, the leading trade show for menswear held in Florence Italy, has solidified its position as a must-visit destination. The space serves as a platform for the emerging cohort of designers dedicated to eco-responsibility and sustainable initiatives. Among the 10 selected labels this season, Olooh Concept by Ivorian designer Kader Diaby stood out with its captivating designs.
Kader Diaby, originally from Abidjan, spent a considerable amount of time living abroad before returning to his native country. He resided in Europe and Rabat, Morocco, where he obtained a degree in management control and auditing. Later, he pursued a photography course with Klaym, in partnership with the Haute Ecole des Arts in Zurich. Passionate about photography, he collaborated with fashion magazines and Brussels' Number 8 Gallery.
"I have always had a need for self-expression, and through creating outfits for my photo sessions, fashion took on a more significant role in my heart," said Diaby.
He decided to leave his job as a financial consultant at Ernst & Young to establish his own fashion house, named Olooh, which means 'Our' in the Senufo language.
Founded in 2018 but put on hold during the pandemic, the Olooh brand made a comeback in 2021 with the opening of an atelier-showroom-boutique located in Abidjan's expat district. Today, Diaby works with a team of four people. As a self-taught 32-year-old designer, his initial vision was to create clothes that were comfortable, easy to wear, and mix and match. He aimed to infuse them with a touch of originality while being suitable for the tropical climate. Diaby learned by "documenting" himself and with the assistance of his mother, who is a seamstress.
Diaby has a preference for natural materials such as linen and organic dyes like indigo. He aims to showcase the "chic and classic Ivorian" style through timeless pieces with minimalist designs and carefully placed details. Starting with menswear, Olooh has expanded its collection to include women's clothing, including the introduction of dresses. The collection comprises well-crafted jackets, pants, shirts, and other monochromatic garments made from white cotton and linen. They are then dyed in neutral shades. All the production takes place in Côte d'Ivoire, utilizing local techniques. The timeless loose and fluid pieces are priced between 180 and 435 euros. They are intended to be versatile, allowing for effortless pairing across seasons.
Occasionally, Olooh garments are adorned with decorative elements, such as sérigraphie-printed bird motifs adorning shirts or fabric leaves delicately applied to tops. The brand takes pride in its meticulously handcrafted buttons and jewelry, crafted from reclaimed brass and bronze pieces sourced from discarded pipes. These beautiful accents find their place, for instance, on a blue coat, resembling graceful swallows soaring through the sky. Diaby has a profound appreciation for clean and minimalist garments. "I see clothing as a canvas where intricate details weave captivating stories," revealed the designer. Olooh is distributed through four e-commerce platforms and is also available at the Aby Concept boutique in Abidjan. It follows a locally conscious and environmentally friendly business model that has achieved financial stability within a few years.
The S Style section also featured French designers Jeanne Friot and Steven Passaro, alongside Italian labels Cavia and Dalpaos, Indian designer Dhruv Kapoor, as well as Danish label Isnurh, Ukrainian label Ksenia Schnaider, English label Permu, and South Korean label Young n Sang. All these designers received support from luxury group Kering, which, for the first time, partnered with Pitti Uomo. Through its Materials Innovation Lab (MIL), dedicated to sustainable textiles, Kering provided fabrics and materials for creating specific pieces in their collections.
"We organized a workshop in April, during which we explained the group's approach to materials and sustainable development. We paired each designer with eco-responsible materials or specific manufacturing processes," said Caterina Tonda, the manager responsible for sustainable development in the ready-to-wear division at Kering.
"By doing so, we bridged the gap between two emerging aspects: innovative technologies that are not yet market-ready, and the creativity of these young designers, who had the opportunity to experiment with these nascent technologies."
Copyright © 2023 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.
