Prada: Hipster organisation man

Just when everyone in Italy has been sending out classic tailoring on their menswear runway, leave it to Prada to go in the opposite direction, and with punch.

Doubly so when it comes to their set décor. This sunny Sunday, guests entered Prada’s south Milan show-space found it transformed into a stainless steel metallic factory. Diamond plate seating and a catwalk and ceiling made of perforated steel panels, the sort they use in high-security prison cells.

Phalanxes of black-suited security guards prevented any audience member even approaching in case they might fall.

Then, as the soundtrack began to drone signaling the show’s debut, mysterious sheets of glue fell from the ceiling, creating multiple transparent walls through which one spied the actual models. A theatrical touch blending hints of Joseph Beuys and H. R. Giger. Yes, that dark.

Dressed initially in a somber color palette of midnight blue, battleship gray and anthracite, and attired in carefully ironed denim or linen crepe shirts, wide shorts or strict military shirts. The dripping glue mimicked in some great streaky black and white silk dress shirts, with French cuffs, though no cufflinks.

Hipster organisation men on inner-city maneuvers. Playing on hunting and fishing gear with multi-pocket waistcoats, shirt jackets and tops finished with silver rings and hoops. Again, with long sleeves and no cufflinks. As the show progressed, the shirts took on an abstract feel – pockets gradually morphing into fabric flowers and cacti.

For wetter days, voluminous detective coats in lemon, violet, caramel or sand – some even topped by the hunting vests. Or sporty hikers’ parkas, worn with deep pocket English colonial shorts.

In footwear, black socks and lots of patent leather loafers and slippers in hues of tomato, crimson or black – on a cast most of whom looked headed to work. Likely to a co-working office with a name like Spaces or The Bureau, where they will be the best dressed boys thanks to the design team of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons.

Several models wore hair bands cut like plastic crown of thorns, the same object sent to guests along with their invitations. Off to Spaces to sacrifice themselves for their careers.

Despite the dashes of party shirts, the mood was somber, magnified by the soundtrack – The Nine Inch Nails industrial anthem Closer on a loop. Quite why such a notably independent woman like Miuccia Prada found it acceptable to blast some of the lyrics on her soundtrack will remain mystery. Such as: “I want to fu**k you like an animal. I want to feel you inside.”

It remains a further mystery why the house jettisoned its long-standing sound architect, the great Frédéric Sanchez.

In the end, by the time the models completed their group finale, the glue had begun to slowly coagulate. And, in a neat touch, turn into the famed Prada seafoam green.

Not an earth-shattering collection, but a clever stylistic stance, a powerful catwalk show, though not soundtrack.

Prada: Hipster organisation man

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